I was suddenly thinking: why not send a few “Olio Verde Novello” and “Olio Verde with Lemon”  bottles to Fritz Knipschildt (www.knipschildt.com)? The most inventive of all chocolatiers? Maybe he’d feel inspired to create an Olio Verde Lemon truffle, just like, or better than, La Maison du Chocolat’s rare fennel and dark chocolate ganache? It occured to me at Orly airport, on the way back to Sicily from SIAL, France’s megagalactic food show in Paris, as I was rushing by a Maison du Chocolat stand followed by a La Durée stand, thinking what-a-pity-but-can’t-risk-missing-my-flight-can-I? And naturally I stopped for a quick éclair au café at the first one while eyeing the second’s perfect macaroon boxes…barely making my flight.

In the mid-nineties in Switzerland a famous Swiss Gault-Millau, Michelin-starred chef developed a signature bitter chocolate mousse recipe, which earned him quite some positive reviews. His main ingredients? Used to be Valrohna chocolate (Arriba quality from Ecuador), now Felchlin chocolate, and Olio Verde. And a touch of cream to take away some of the shine olive oil lends to the mousse, he says. The recipe is quite traditional otherwise: egg yolks, sugar, bain-marie melted chocolate, whipped egg whites, a tiny dab of whipped cream.. We don’t know where he puts the oil, or how much, but I suppose he’d substitute the butter with oil. In that case you’d need only half the amount. The actual recipe remains a mystery, though, and I personally haven’t tasted this dessert yet, so that I am not in the position to discuss alternatives at length. However, I would try the following (this recipe was adpated from Chef Peter Gorton, from Chocolate Trading Co., UK):

Dark Chocolate Mousse RECIPE

Ingredients (4 servings) - Makes 14 oz
1 medium egg yolk
1 tablespoon brandy
no butter, but 1,5 to 2 tbsp Olio Verde (and better even Olio Verde Novello)
2 medium egg whites
1 tablespoon sugar
1 tbsp of double cream
175g/6oz dark chocolate, melted and kept warm.

Chef’s recommendation: for the dark chocolate opt for either the Valrhona 61% block (1kg) or the Le 68% bar (250g) as this wouldn’t be too much of a jump in cocoa content.

To make the mousse: Melt the dark chocolate in a heatproof bowl over a pan of gently simmering water. Beat in the egg yolk, brandy, half the Olio Verde, and 1/2 tablespoon of the cream. Off-heat, add the remainder of the olive oil gently dripping it in while energically whipping the mixture cold. Separately whip the rest of the cream until it stiffens, then fold carefully into the chilled chocolate mousse mixture.

In another bowl, whisk the egg whites until they form soft peaks. Gradually whisk in the castor sugar and continue whisking until stiff but not dry. Gently fork the egg whites, a little at a time, into the chocolate mixture until well combined. Spoon the mousse into 4 ramequins and chill.

Anyone happy to try it?

Dalsass also specifies that any olive oil flavors completely vanish in the mousse 24h after it was prepared, since the chocolate’s natural butter is much stronger and takes over. Which is why you need a strong olive oil. Result: a much lighter, less pasty mousse under the palate.

Martin Dalsass – SANTABBONDIO – Via Formelino 10 – CH-6924 Lugano-Sorengo – Tel.: +41 / 91 / 993 23 88 – Fax: +41 / 91 / 994 32 37 – click here for web: ristorante santabbondio

Read more here in German, by clicking on this link: nzz swiss newspaper

Or download the following German articles with English and Italian translations: MARTIN DALSASS Swiss Michelin chef, signature Olio Verde choco mousse interview D-IT-E

- GaB